Application Tips

NOTE: Pouring over a thickness of 1/16 inch may cause excessive bubbles, yellowing, and distortions in surface. Use multiple coats to

achieve desired thickness.  Please subtract for losses over edge of tables and bar nose.



1)     For best results, the surface to be covered must be dry and free of dust, wax, grease or oil.

2)    The item to be coated should be about 2 inches above the work area so that the extra mixture will drop off the item. It is a good idea to put a newspaper or a drop cloth under the item to catch the drips.

3) Apply tape or paste wax now to prepare the back surface of the project for easy drip removal.


SEAL COATS– Porous materials require what is called a seal coat in order to prevent air from escaping into the fluid. To seal coat, use _ of the epoxy you would normally use for a flood coat. Brush a thin coat on the item. Wait about 12 hours and then you are ready to apply the flood coat. A white glue seal coat can also be used. Mix 4 parts white glue to 1 part water. Wait 4 hours before applying epoxy coating.


DRIPS – The excess mixture will drip over the sides of the item being covered. Use one of the following methods to remove these drips.

1) Before pouring, apply tape on the edges of the back of the item. After the epoxy has cured, the tape along with the drips may be pulled off.

The cured drips will pull off with the tape as it is peeled away.

2) Drips may be sanded off after the item has cured, if tape has not been used.

3) Drips may be scraped off about 45 minutes after pouring by running a tongue depressor on the underside edge of the project where drips have

formed. Clean depressor off frequently on paper towel.


                                           DIRECTIONS FOR USE:

 BEFORE MIXING –Polymer should be used in a room where the humidity is under 60% and the temperature is at least 75º-85ºF when pouring. When the humidity is over 50% a dehumidifier should be used in the room where the pouring and curing is taking place. If you set there in bottle (bottle with white cap) in hot water for 10 minutes you will have a thinner mixture and less bubbles will appear on the object being poured. Be very careful not to get any water into epoxy! Do not heat resin bottle over 95ºF. If resin bottle has been heated, working time will be approximately 10-15 minutes.


MEASURING – (Remember – make a test piece first!) Measure 1 part resin to 1 part hardener. MEASURE EXACT AMOUNT OF BOTH RESIN AND HARDENER IN SEPARATE MEASURING CUPS. DO NOT add more hardener than resin as this will cause the finished coating to remain sticky. DO NOT guess at measurements or try to estimate. DO NOTattempt to drain all of the fluid from bottles rather than measuring. NOTE: INACCURATE MEASURING WILL CAUSE EPOXY SURFACE TO REMAIN SOFT OR STICKY. INACCURATE MIXING WILL CAUSE SOFT OR STICKY “SPOTS” ON THE EPOXY SURFACE.


MIXING –In a clean container, mix the measured resin and hardener. Be sure to scrape sides and bottom of cups containing resin and hardener when pouring into container to be mixed so that proportions remain even. Stir vigorously for about 2 minutes scraping sides and bottom of container to insure complete mixing. In order to insure a beautifully finished product, it is extremely important that the resin and hardener are thoroughly mixed. If bubbles appear, do not worry (see step 4). Mix only the amount you are going to use. Using your stick to scrape the sides and bottom,

totally empty the first cup into the second cup. Mix for another minutes and pour immediately. Larger batches of 1 quart or more will require 3-4 minutes of mixing with a straight sides paint paddle. NOTE: When mixing large amounts of this product the longer mixing time will cut back on your working time. Also, a large amount of mixture will cure faster in its container. If resin bottle has been heated, working time will be approximately 10-15 minutes. We do not recommend mixing more than _ gallon mixture at a time.


POURING IMMEDIATELY – As soon as the epoxy is mixed, pour evenly over the surface. The mixing stick can be used to spread the material evenly over the surface. A brush may be used for touching up sides of difficult to reach places. You will have approximately 20 minutes “working time” before the epoxy begins to “set up”.


BUBBLE BREAKING –After a few minutes, bubbles may rise to the surface. They may be broken by a) gently exhaling on bubbles through a straw until they are gone (do not inhale fumes!) or b) using a propane torch. Hold the torch about 6 inches away from surface and sweep rapidly across until bubbles disappear. You may need to go back over surface again with the torch approximately 10 minutes later. Do not torch surface too close to curing time as it may make permanent waves in surface. If there is a stubborn bubble, just pop it with a toothpick. Do not use a hair dryer as

its blowing action will disrupt the surface.


CURING –For best results, the room temperature should be between 75ºF-80ºF. Room humidity should be under 60%. The coated item should be allowed to cure for several days in a dust free room. If your item remains sticky after this time, you have measured incorrectly and the item may be re-poured following the above steps. If your item has sticky spots, you have under-mixed and the item may be re-poured using the above steps. The new pour will harden. Protect poured item from dust by using a box to cover item, or a “protective tent” made by a plastic drop cloth over two chairs.


CLEANING UP – Use acetone to clean up while it is in the liquid state. After the epoxy has cured, it may be removed by sanding or a paint stripper. It is advisable to clean immediately after use.